Summer Dreams 2014

coming soon

Granada Nicaragua

In Search or the Perfect Ceviche and other adventures out soon in my TravelOkcity column, Leisure+Adventure Magazine, and here.

Marshall Islands

Got Wasabi? (A deep sea fishing adventure in the Marshall Islands)

Prairie Dog Town

Adventures in the city of Oklahoma and beyond in my travel column, TravelOkcity.

Hefner Lake Park

Adventures in the city of Oklahoma and beyond in my travel column, TravelOkcity.

Huahin, Thailand

The warm hospitality of a boutique hotel in the beach resort town of royalty in the northern part of the Malay Peninsula.

Thursday, March 29, 2012

Can You Get Any Whiter? (on the Whitening Craze in the Philippines)

Published by Planet Philippines Magazine distributed in London, Los Angeles, Chicago, Boston, Melbourne Toronto, Edmonton


Reveling in the blessings of the sun. (Bintan, Indonesia)


This was a whitening product’s commercial tagline a few years back. The ad shows a girl’s face magically being peeled, layer after layer until she turns deathly white. The TV ad ends with the statement: “Your whitest skin ever.” 

Ana Viajera on the cover!


“Why?” I yelled back at the TV, forgetting for a moment that it was called an idiot box for a reason. But I couldn’t help it. The commercial made my brown skin bristle. I wonder why ads like these would presume that I would like a pasty pallor. It baffles me and at the same time insults me. Why don’t we ever get commercials on bronzers that enhance the morena glow?

While Pinoys hide under whitening creams, halfway across the planet people bask under the sun (Waikiki).


A similar TV campaign caught the attention of the media in India, calling the ad, where a man replaces his former love with someone who had lighter skin, racist. The broadcast journalists were outraged, saying “she’s unbelievably beautiful, but if you want to get the guy, you have to get whiter.”

My husband getting his tan on. (Coco Loco, Palawan)


I was just as incensed, but as if to appease me, the clip was suddenly followed by a commercial showing a fair-skinned model surrounded by her bronze-skinned friends. She is questioned as to why she’s so pale. Has she been using whitening lotion? 

The secret? “Hindi siya nakasama sa beach”.

Milk or coffee? Either sounds good to me! (Marshall Islands)

Few commercials like this actually challenge the idea of what consumerism wants to capitalize on. White is not necessarily beautiful. Boldly, the commercial states that being white can equate to inactivity, being strapped for cash, and maybe even poor health.

The London edition of Planet Philippines. Ana Viajera is going global!


So while the sun worshipers in the commercial are showing off their tans, the pasty-skinned lead is left cooped up in her office.  The commercial suggests that she is missing out on the blessings of the sun and a much needed R&R. Although she was pale, she didn’t look ghastly, but the advertisement implies that if she did have a choice, she’d rather be out getting her tan on. 

Many women are lovely with their China doll complexion. Kris Aquino looks like a pretty kabuki doll in her porcelain skin. Gwen Stefani is the quintessential modern Snow White with her pouty red lips set against flawless ivory skin.

From the Planet Philippines website.

Then there are people who no matter what they do, just can’t get a tan. My husband is Caucasian and tanning for him is a futile and frustrating exercise. After baking under the sun for hours, he’d end up with angry red splotches on his cheeks that burn and itch. Like him, some people are naturally fair skinned and they’re beautiful that way.

What can I say? I worship the sun! (Bintan, Indonesia)


In the same way, morenas are beautiful in their own skin, but many choose to go lighter, believing that beauty is in the light. For instance, my morena friend, Summer: if not for her sunny personality, her name would have been an irony because she shies away from the sun for fear of skin darkening. Teasing her, I told her that bronze skin is very cosmopolitan and fashionable. Promptly, she answered, “pangit na nga ako, magpapaitim pa?” Correct me if I’m wrong but, is she saying that being dark makes one even ugly or uglier? Many kayumanggis like her cover themselves in globs of sun block, not because they want to be protected from photoaging or skin cancer, but because they abhor getting darker. 

I once took a friend to the pool a day before her wedding. People pointed accusing fingers at me on the day of the wedding.  “She dragged the bride to go swimming before the wedding! Lahat ng nagpapakasal, nagpapaputi.” The horror! The horror! Never mind that she looked radiant in her tan and white dress.

Read the full article at Planet Philippines.


Tuesday, March 20, 2012

Spring Banner 2012


My web developer Cherie Del Rio taught me the magic of photo enhancing.

Like a butterfly, spring descended upon us gingerly this year. It hovered over us teasingly through the last breaths of winter. Every day I watch as it unfolds its colorful wings before me through my office window – the grass is getting greener and thicker like carpet, the crepe myrtle trees that we thought wouldn’t make it through the summer drought and the harsh winter are blooming timidly with bright little leaves, and the Valentine flowers from my husband last year has resurrected in bright purples and yellows. He had wanted to throw them out, thinking they were dead. I thought we should give them a chance and asked him to plant the withered potted bouquet in our backyard where it now blooms like  the delicate winged creatures. 

    The one that didn't make it to the final cut.


So of course, I have to have a butterfly on my desk. They after all come out in the early parts of spring. Butterflies also have a special meaning to me, but I will reveal more on that later on. The butterfly notebook is my journal for 2012. I have kept a daily journal since 1987. So yes, I can tell you what I did and with whom and probably how I felt exactly 20 years ago from today. 

The first flowers of spring that bloomed in our backyard...
  
One of the books featured on the desk is Pulitzer Prize winning memoir, Angela’s Ashes, by Frank McCourt. What does it have to do with travel? It took me to Ireland, a different kind of Ireland that I’ve known – the land of rolling lush hills and lilting accents, and of course, the home of the greatest rock and roll band in the world, one of my favorite constants in my life: U2.


was from last year's Valentine's bouquet from my boys.


The Ireland that McCourt showed me was not quite as romantic. It was wet and dreary. I’ve known poverty most of my life, living in the Philippines. I’ve seen it up close, touched it, smelled it, and heard it. But Angela’s Ashes showed me a different face of dearth where children go to school in the dead of winter with no shoes on. Many children in the Philippines have to contend with hunger but I cannot imagine how it must be like to be hungry AND freezing.  And now that I have a little one of my own,  the impact on me is even more powerful.

  They bloomed even brighter this year, although the bugs got to them first.
 
Another thing about the book that made a great impression on me is the author’s voice. He wrote it using the voice of a 10-year-old. I could hardly remember much of my childhood, at least not with the kind of vividness that he expressed it with. How he managed to retell his days of youth with much clarity, honesty, and authority and still bring out the innocence and humor only a young mind could muster is a brilliant feat.


The flowers on the banner are from this year's Valentine's bouquet.

 
And yes, Ireland is in our future Itinerary. A few years back, my husband had planned a trip to Ireland but a twist of fate led him to the farthest eastern part of Europe.  While my husband wants to trace his roots, being part Irish, I’d like to look for The Kitchen in Dublin and hopefully find Paul Hewson and hear his thoughts about the apartheid in South Africa with Guinness as our company. Incidentally, while I’m writing this, my in-laws are in Ireland, roaming the damp streets. I heard it’s the rainy season there right now. I trust that the rain will wash away the country’s sad history, and that they will find beauty in the water’s sheen.

The Valentine that Finn and I made for his daddy that traces my son's footprints.

 
And how can you miss the book on Nicaragua? The tickets have been bought  and reservations have been made. We will be having our summer adventure in spring. It would be so darn nice to feel the sun on my bare shoulders again after walking around in several layers for months.


The little boy from which I stole the toy jeepney from is no longer a little one.


Then there’s the little orange jeepney, a quintessential Manila icon. I stole the toy from my younger brother Perry. Of course he’s not so young anymore, so I doubt if he even noticed that it’s gone. My son pushes it around on our hard wood floors now. I like how something is passed down from one generation to the other. Maybe he’ll hand it down to his son someday.   Assuming of course that he won’t chew the tires off first.


Anyway, another reason why I included this toy in my banner is because I’ve recently joined another publication represented by the jeepney. Thanks to the referral of my web master, Cherie Del Rio. I’m now one of the contributors for Planet Philippines, a global publication that is seeing circulationin London, Los Angeles, Chicago, Boston, Melbourne Toronto, Edmonton. Yes, Ana Viajera is going global! Aptly, my first article is titled Romancing Manila (from A to Zzzz).


Meet my newest travel companion.


And finally, the newest addition to my travel tools: the Canon DSLR. I’ve always loved taking pictures as far as I can remember. Somebody once said that my life is so well documented in pictures and in words (the journals, remember?).  For many years as a travel writer, I have explored in the company of professional photographers. Now that I’ve relocated, I have to rely on my own pictures. The newest addition in my life, my son, has also encouraged me to taking photographs more seriously, because I would like to capture  every smile and every quirk that brings so much joy to our life.


I hope to capture his every quirk with my new camera.


But let me make this clear- especially to the photographers who scoff at those who think they’re photographers just because they have a DSLR and lenses that are inversely proportional to the length of their …well…you can fill in the blank here – I have no illusions about being a photographer. I know little about the poetry of light, shape, shadow, color,  and texture. I merely  love to take pictures and hope to tell my story better not in words alone but as Cherie would put it , through “poetry in four edges”. I’ve never been any good in poetry anyway, at least not the kind that is measured in quatrains and such. You won’t find me prattling about f/stops and shutter speeds here. No, there won’t be numbers here or technical jargon. I promise. Only my attempts of showing my footprints in more dimensions.

     
            I never travel without my sunglasses. The pair featured on the desk is my favorite Steve Maddens.
Photo by Cherie Del Rio.
                





















  


Why the disclaimer? In my line of work, I have had the privilege of collaborating with numerous professional photographers. When I say professional, I mean those who are actually published by reputable publications, get paid for their pictures, get assigned to go somewhere, or even conduct classes. And I understand how they regard the wannabes who so highly think of themselves just because they have a 70-200mm f/2.8L telephoto zoom lens  and friends who don’t know any better but are generous with their praises.   I do however have great respect for the humble hobbyists who love to take pictures and come out with moving and inspiring images and don’t make a lot of noise claiming themselves to be  a “photographer” and neither do they go on with technical jargon and instead allow their photographs to speak for themselves.



I guess you can say I had good times with the Canon in Guam.



I also want to thank my husband, who got me the camera as one of his Christmas presents,  for choosing well, I think. About 75% of the photographers  I’ve worked with prefer the Canon and the rest, Nikon, over the other brands. My point-and-shoot is also a Canon (before that I had a long history with the Pentax). So yes, I am partial to Canon.   Years back, a friend of mine, also a brilliant shutterbug, bought a Sony, and I jokingly told him, “why Sony? Pang TV lang sila?” Weeks later, he returned his unit saying that “it sucks!”


More good times with the Canon in Hanoi.



But then again my eldest brother and Cherie (who had also recently shifted to a Canon) had taken arresting pictures with their Sony, so I guess it really is the photographer and not the equipment. I remember being invited to a press junket in Batanes, mainly for photographers. With Batanes being a great setting for stunning pictures, Epson sponsored a photo contest. A girl won second place, beating photographers with lenses so long that it’s impossible to be around them without being poked. Her humble equipment didn’t even have a wide angle lens. She used a point-and-shoot –proof once again that it’s not the camera but the eyes behind it.  


Rod Lim took this panoramic shot of me at the San Agustin Church with a low MP Sony Ericsson phone. Sheer talent.

 And so here begins another adventure for Ana Viajera, venturing through the avenues of shapes and shadows, attempting to record stories through light, and hoping to be at the right place when according to Ansel Adams “God's ready to have somebody click the shutter.” 


Let the flowers bloom in our head.


***

As the seasons change, so will my desktop banner. I will be adding little touches to it, moving the items around, and customizing it for the season. I will archive its transformation on My Desk. 

Read more about how I put the banner together and how my real writer's desk looks like at My Desk. And tell me how your desk looks like, and I will tell you who you are.




Tuesday, March 13, 2012

Romancing Manila (from A to Zzz..)

Published by Planet Philippines Magazine distributed in London, Los Angeles, Chicago, Boston, Melbourne Toronto, Edmonton
Photos by Ray Soberano

Ang mga babae mong naggagandahan


You’ve fallen in love with her beautiful chaos, drowned in her swirl of colors. There is no one quite like her. You’ve been away for so long, yet you still hear the echo of her voice. It’s a cacophony of sounds- the honking of colourful jeepneys, the cry of the ballot vendor, calling for your return. And so you go back, seeking out her smells, the intoxicating scent of sampaguita, the mouth watering aroma of street food fare. On your reunion, go on a full day date with her and re experience her splendour. An hour or two is not enough. Rekindle the spark with Manila with this sunrise to sunset itinerary:



Ang mga jeepney mong nagliliparan

 7:00 breakfast

You’ve lived on cereal for so long; it’s time to enjoy breakfast the way you used to with large helpings of fried rice, eggs, and chorizo. Dulcinea has some of the best Filipino breakfast favourites including chorizo bilbao, chorizo Pamplona and jamon serrano sprinkled with a generous helping of tradition. Their famous Spanish style Churros Con Chocolate will give you the sugar buzz that you need to start off your Manila tour.


Rule of the king of the road: Barya lang po sa umaga

Dulcinea has ten branches all over the city, but it’s best to have your breakfast at Greenbelt 1 in Makati where you’ll be close to your next stop. If you have the craving for freshly baked puto bumbong or bibingka, head over to Via Mare or to the Manila Peninsula.

Simply no shopping like t here is in Manila

9:00 Historical Tour

Start your day quietly at the Manila American Cemetery and Memorial, a sprawling green 152 acre plateau at the Global City Taguig, a short scenic ride from Makati.  The cemetery contains the largest number of graves of American heroes from World War II. White washed headstones stand in a uniform circular pattern, reminiscent of how these soldiers used to stand in attention. Around these sentinels are a lush variety of tropical trees and shrubberies that offer a quiet sanctuary in the middle of a concrete jungle. Outside is a spectacular view of the Laguna de Bay and neighbouring mountains. Close by is the Cemetery of Heroes where our own heroes and martyrs are laid to rest.

10:30 Shopping

It won’t be a tour without the shopping, and Pinoys are known for cheap retailing. From Taguig, take the C5 road to Tiendesitas in Pasig City. Tiendesitas offers a new shopping experience, showcasing the best Philippine products from art, antiques, furniture, pets, plants, to novelty items, souvenirs, native delicacies, and fashion. More than 450 traders sell their wares under Maranao inspired pavilions adorned with cogon grass, old kalesa wheels, and duyans.

Manila's many massive malls
 
1200 Lunch

Before you blow all your hard earned dollars on antique jars, head back to Taguig for lunch at Serendra Piazza. Serendra at Bonifacio Global City is a two level indoor and outdoor diner’s paradise. If you’re missing lola’s dishes, Conti’s or Abe’s is a great choice.

2:00 Spanish colonial stop

Head over to old Manila, to trace your roots in Intramuros. Within the walled city are numerous places of interest that harks back to the 16th century Spanish colonial period. The San Agustin Church is the oldest church in the country. The Trompe-l'Å“il painted ceiling, the ornately carved massive door, the choir loft with 17th century molave seats, and the courtyard make the San Agustin Church a worthy stop. Beside the Church is the museum, home to countless church artifacts, statues, paintings with gold niches from the 17th century, and tombs of Spanish conquistadors like Miguel Lopez de Legazpi and Juan de Salcedo.  

Beauty within the walls


3:00 Merienda

Barbara’s across the museum has a little courtyard where you can cool off and share a slice of decadent chocolate cake with caramel sauce. Upstairs is the dining hall that takes you back to the 17th century with its lavish chandeliers and ornately bordered mirrors, and traditional Filipino and Spanish cuisine.

The best of Manila sound: hopia, mani, popcorn...


If you prefer the oriental delicacies, head to Binondo for some Chinese buns and hopia. Be careful because you can get lost in Chinatown, allured by the good luck charms, exotic ingredients, and jewelry in shops and stalls along the streets.

View the complete article at  Planet Philippines.

Friday, February 3, 2012

Once Upon a Time in the Summer Palace (a Michelin rated restaurant in Hong Kong)

Published by AsianTraveler Magazine, 2009
Images by Nana Arellano-Aoyong


He hardly spoke English. Fortunately for us, his dishes spoke a thousand words. While he made gestures and required a translator to express his thoughts, he needed no explanation for his deep fried chicken wings or his chilled sago cream with fresh mango juice and pomelo. His specialities broke the language barrier. The flavours were both universal and unusual.

A chat with HK's "god of the kitchen"

The Summer Palace’s Chef Lee Keung after all is the “God of the Kitchen”, a title given to him by the Hong Kong culinary world. And a god finds little use for words. His creations say it all.

Following the flitting firefly

Far from intimidating, he greeted us with kind humour in his eyes. Not the kind of god I imagined at all. With a sense of excited urgency, he motioned for us to sit down. Suddenly, the gates of the palace were opened for us.

Waiting to be seated outside the gates of the palace.



We settled into our gilded scarlet chairs and marvelled at the opulence of Island Shangri-La’s Summer Palace. A two-star Michelin rated restaurant, Summer Palace rightfully sits atop Island Shangri-La along Supreme Court Road in Central, Hong Kong.

Around us, the restaurant gleamed in elegance, calling to mind the Imperial Chinese of old. The décor however was in no way outdated. By the entrance, a large carved screen, depicting a mythical scene of a golden phoenix soaring in the heavens, welcomes guests into a world of whimsy and gastronomic adventure.

Inside the Michelin rated restaurant.

Everywhere were tales of wonder. Golden embroidered butterflies seemed to dance on the silk wall panels. Their reflections peek through the fancy ironwork covering the mirrors. By our table, a curious rabbit, looking up at a bird perched on a tree, is delicately painted on a silk canvass. Similar stories are found in almost every corner. The screens, the plush blue carpet, and the door panels – a floor to ceiling gold network of carved branches with blossoms - are designed to mirror the four petal flower motif of the Summer Palace in Beijing. We were transported.

Nana, our photographer, ran around, snapping away like a child running after a flitting firefly giving everything it alighted on a soft glow. Overhead, a Viennese teardrop chandelier sparkled. Its oriental accents of brass and jade rings seemed to shimmer every time the flash went off.   It was as if we stepped into an old Chinese fairy tale, and we were enthralled. The dishes however told the best stories.

The tale of the dumpling

Chinese pride and history unfolded on the table, one dish after the other. A master of Cantonese cuisine, Chef Keung is all about tradition, of old recipes he figured out himself through numerous tries like the classic chilled crystal ham. The traditional Zhenjiang delicacy made of cubed pressed ham and stock was a cool and unusual starter that whetted our appetite for something warmer. Out came a bamboo basket of soup dumplings.

We were treated like royalty in this house of food worship.

Once served, the bun quivered in my bowl, suggesting a surprise waiting inside. I pierced through the little fat pouch’s translucent skin, and a stream of amber colored liquid trickled out. The soup is made by wrapping solid meat gelatine inside the skin alongside the meat filling. When the dumpling is steamed, the gelatine melts into a soup that subtly tasted of the diced meat, shark’s fin, and vegetables, leaving me wanting for more.

Food for the gods.

Soup dumplings, or xialongbao as they’re called in China, are traditional baozi Chinese fare which was invented by the military strategist Zhuge Liang back in third century AD. Chef Keung regards the centuries-old tradition with great respect. He uses only the freshest ingredients and stays true to traditional Cantonese methods of preparation which includes braising, stewing, and double boiling. To some, these methods are too tiresome and painstaking, but the chef is a man of great patience and hard work. He, after all, started in the lowest of ranks as a chopper, doing nothing but dicing vegetables for four years before he was finally allowed to touch the stove. All these started at the young age of 15. There were no stories of old-age recipes handed down from generations past. His story was all about waiting patiently, learning the revered ways on his own, and rightfully earning his title.

Delicate, delectable, delightful

Rushing in and out of the kitchen, Chef Keung brought out the dishes himself. With the modesty of a server, he carefully set another delicacy on the table: sliced barbequed suckling pig served with soft white pastry. The skin slices were so delightfully crispy that I almost forgot I was snacking on pork. It was like chewing on sweet and salty golden wafers that crackled in the mouth.  There was not a trace of oil in the thin slices. While pork always brings to mind the words “oily”, “greasy”, or “fatty”, Chef Keung’s suckling pig could only suggest the words “delicate”, “delightful” and of course, “delectable.”

Dining in opulence


After the light treat, we were served something more heavy and rich: scrambled egg white in fresh milk with diced scallops and crab coral. The creamy texture was quite surprising after the palate had been teased with the crispy pig skin. The mildly sweetness of the scallops blended perfectly with the creaminess of the dish while the crab coral offered texture and a more pronounced saltiness.

scrambled egg white in fresh milk with diced scallops and crab coral

Each dish presented was just as surprising if not delightful. Stir fried minced vegetables with pine nuts were served on fresh cabbage leaves. Each crispy bite was punctuated with the crunch of the pine nuts. I imagined the cabbage rolls would be a perfect refreshing snack on a summer day, and I eagerly made another roll to challenge my host’s ribbing that I ate like a tiny bird.

cabbage roll: a refreshing start

On the contrary, in spite of my diminutive frame, I had been known to “eat like a truck driver”, wolfing down everything that got in the way, but this was not the place for such decorum. Everything around me called to be relished and savoured; besides, the piece de resistance was still on its way.

The story of the succulent wing

It seems quite odd to think that one of the thinnest parts of the chicken should be stuffed; a god can do whatever he wills apparently. And kitchen deities usually do come up with something short of spectacular.

behold, a god's masterpiece: deep fried chicken wings

The chef revealed that the deep fried chicken wings with crab meat and shark’s fin required a long and complicated preparation. He explained that he had to remove the bone and the meat from each wing, careful not to tear the fragile skin. Then he would stuff in the crab meat and shark’s fin before deep frying the wing. The result is a crispy succulent drummette, that I had one too many. He probably wipes off each wing down before serving because again, there was not a hint of grease on each, and all I could savour was the skin’s crispiness and the meat’s sweet and tender juiciness.

Palate play

 A cook of over 50 years, this 64-year-old is all traditional, but he does not shy away from innovations. During a visit to Singapore, he tried a mango dessert that inspired him to create his own. The result was the highly acclaimed chilled sago cream with fresh mango juice and pomelo. Although I am not a big fan of saccharine treats, I dipped into the gold-trimmed crystal bowl with eagerness and was delighted with the first spoonful. The citrusy pomelo reduced the creamy sweetness. Every spoonful was a play for the tongue as it sought out the tangy surprise of the pomelo.

After we dined with deity.

Such dreamy creations have not only earned Summer Palace the much coveted Michelin rating, but several other citations. The Summer Palace was named one of “Hong Kong’s 50 Finest Restaurants” in 2008 by Hong Kong Tatler and one of the ten “Great Hotel Restaurants” in the world by HOTELS Magazine (US) in 2004. But it appeared that the recognition didn’t matter to Chef Keung that much. All he seemed to care about was that I polished off my plate. As much as I didn’t want to insult the god of the kitchen, I had to beg off on account of a bulging tummy. I had to break the dream. All good stories must end after all.

Friday, January 13, 2012

Travel though Taste and Tannins (Wine 101)

 
Published by The Tribune for my TravelOkcity travel column.


Paseo Grill: So I had Pinot Gris with my wagyu; is that such a crime?

One of the things that I look forward to at Christmas day is the coming home after an exhausting night of family get-togethers. After all the frenetic festivities, nothing beats just sitting in front of the fire with a glass of Chianti. I like to kick off my shoes and reminisce on the year that is about to close while relishing the light cherry notes in my mouth. The tree lights reflect on the deep red liquid, sparkling this way and that as I swirl the glass around to release the bouquet and enjoy the subtle floral aromas.

Rusty Nails Winery: Sometimes we'd go on a road trip in search of wineries or vineyards.


I am by no means a wine connoisseur or a sommelier. I am far from it. In fact, I can’t tell a cheap domestic “Chianti” from the real thing bottled in Tuscany. I merely love the giddy effect and the rich flavors that play with my tongue. My husband on the other hand is quite the wine snob, searching the city’s liquor shops and wineries for the bottle of Orvieto he had when he visited that Italian wine region. I couldn’t care less whether it came from the liquor store next door or in Umbria, but just so we could talk the same language, I recently decided to take the art of wining and dining more seriously. Journey with me as I travel trough the taste buds and demystify this thing they call “wine”.

Education for the Palate


Image by Gerard Villanueva


I have been to a few wine tasting seminars, wine degustations, and wine tours here and abroad and I’d like to share the few things that I’ve picked up along the way. If I make some erroneous statements I hope that the sommeliers and oenophilists won’t crucify me and understand that it is probably the bubbly talking and that it’s hard to take notes in the company of a good Pinot Noir.

In the Philippines, I’ve had the privilege of dining with Chef Gene Gonzalez, one of the country’s top culinary authorities and wine expert. The chef conducts basic wine appreciation lectures over a carefully prepared degustation or gourmet dinner. 


Happiness at Tapella, Greenbelt, Manila.
Although a conseiller culinaire of the National board of the Chaine des Rotisseurs and also a member of the London based International Wine and Food Society, Chef Gonzalez does not consider himself a sommelier. His humble attitude extends to his wining and dining principles. His teachings are not snobbish but practical, and most of all he subscribes to the philosophy of eat or drink what makes you happy. It is that same philosophy that I brought with me when I traced the path of the Connecticut Wine Trail or when I sampled the different varieties in the wineries in Broken Bow and Watonga to learn more about wine care and pairings.

Care and storage


Connecticut Wine Trail


Air is wine’s greatest enemy. I’ve learned that prolonged exposure to air can magically transform my sweet elixir to bitter vinegar. “Wine is often described as being ‘alive’ to explain why it continues to evolve and ‘grow’ with further bottle age (for those wines that do),” explains chef Gonzalez. 


Wine Depot in Manila, Philippines (Photo by Ray Soberano)


Exposure to heat, light and even vibrations can also be harmful to wine. Sommeliers suggest storing wines in cellars to protect your wine from the  harsh climate and to keep it from direct sunlight. For those without a cellar, a good alternative is a wine cabinet that simulates the dark, humid, and vibration-free environment of the wine cellar. Some wine storage cabinets have temperature and humidity controls. If you’re like me who’s not willing to cough up serious cash to simply enjoy a good Cabernet Sauvignon, the old Frigidaire should do. Keep in mind however that a refrigerator may get too cold. A fridge is also not damp enough to keep the cork from drying up. Opened wine stored in the ref should be consumed within 6 months, but it is always best to consume the whole bottle soon as it is opened.


The Old Bastard Shiraz does not come cheap at $145 (shown here with a cork lever pull)


Outside the ref, opt for racks that allow them to lie on their sides to keep the cork moist. A moist cork usually remains expanded thus providing an airtight plug.

The practical alternative to corks are the twist caps. Although it doesn’t sound romantic, some wineries have shifted to twist caps because they preserve quality more effectively. Corks on the other hand can produce bacteria.  


Store the bottles lying down to prevent the cork from drying up and shrinking (Image by Ray Soberano).
 
The most elaborate and expensive alternative to keeping wine fresh is the preservation system. The preservation system pumps in argon gas to a newly opened bottle to prevent oxidation and to ensure its freshness for at least a week.

Serving and enjoying 

There are a variety of corkscrews out in the market. Many prefer the screw pull, because it automatically pulls out the cork with one easy movement. There is also the air propelled opener that pumps air and pushes the cork out. 


The butterfly corkscrew makes pulling out the cork easy with one quick movement (Photo by Ray Soberano).


The quick pull corkscrew pulls out the cork with a self centering spiral action that avoids improper cork penetration. You can easily remove the cork by simply turning the handle continuously. The wing corkscrew on the other hand works by pulling on the “wings.” The butterfly corkscrew is an updated version of the wing corkscrew. Instead of lifting the wings, you simply lower its ergonomically sculpted side arms.

Once the bottle is opened, wipe the mouth with a damp cloth before pouring. For champagne, use the tall narrow fluted glasses. White wine is best in a tulip-shaped glass and red wine in large bowl-shaped glasses. The right shaped glass best delivers the unique characteristics of each type of wine.  For a more full bodied flavor, try port sippers.


Wining and dining with friends at Purple Feet in Manila, a gourmet resto within Wine Depot where the chef can cook up whatever you are in the mood for and suggest a wine pairing.


Wine is an experience not for the taste buds alone. Always pour the wine halfway in the glass so that you can fully appreciate the aroma of the wine. Before the first sip, give the glass a good swirl to release the bouquet. A good wine glass must taper at the end because it will deliver a more concentrated aroma to the nostrils. Also, remember to hold the glass by the stem and not by the bowl because your hand temperature can affect the temperature of the liquid.

We’ve heard it numerous times: reds should be served in room temperature. But then the references of this golden rule are to temperate countries. If you served it here in the summer time, your tongue will be treated to a sharp burnt flavor. Serve red wine slightly cold but not chilled.


Chateau 1771, /Greenbelt, Manila with my Gustatory Group by Oliver Zamora


What should be chilled are champagne and white wines. Serve them in an ice bucket but make sure you don’t let them get too cold, or they lose their flavors and bouquets. The most convenient way to keep wines at room temperature on the table is to put them in an “iceless chiller”, a clear plastic wine bucket with thermal properties. Cool or chill the wine before serving then place it in the bucket. The wine is guaranteed to stay cool or chilled without ice for a few hours.

Discriminating eye

Look at how the wine is stored and always consider the bottle’s condition. Start with the neck of the bottle. Check the space between the cork and the wine itself. Gonzalez says that the gap should not be more than half an inch for varieties not more than four years old. Also make sure that there are no stains running down the neck’s side. Stains are warning signs that mean the bottle has been exposed to excessive heat. Another tell tale sign is the cork protruding abnormally out of the rim. On the other hand, cork sunk into the neck usually indicates that the wine has been left standing upright. 


Chocolate and wine don't really mix but it's my birthday!


Finally, examine the wine through the bottle by holding it upright against the light. Look for a vibrant hue. It shouldn’t appear muddy. Never shake the bottle. Gonzalez claims that reds, especially those that age properly, throw off some sediment. However, it should not have sediment floating at the top. On the other hand, flakes of sugar crystals are normal for sweet desert wines of some age.


Wine pairing

Once you’ve got all the technicalities pinned down, its time to enjoy your wine with a slice of roasted pork loin or a few ounces of grilled salmon. But what type of wine would best bring out the flavors of your salmon? Consider the cardinal principles as summarized by Gonzalez. “White wines with seafood or white meat dishes, red wines with meat or dark-skinned poultry, simple wines with complex dishes, complex wines with simple dishes, white wines before red, young before old, and dry before sweet.”


Perfect wine pair at Girls Gone Wine by Beaver's Bend during one of our road trips.


Still too complicated? Let’s play with the specifics. Lighter-styled sparkling wines are often enjoyed as aperitifs. Champagne is also used as palate cleansers. A few sips before a rich meal guarantees you’ll enjoy the full flavors of your dishes. White fuller-bodied wines are paired with food. Dry whites like Chablis, Pouilly-Fuisse and Sauvignon Blanc go best with simple seafood dishes like grilled fish and prawns. Your salmon and other fatty seafood dishes like lobster, seafood paella and fish courses with sauces should be complimented by buttery, fruity or oak flavored whites like an Australian Chardonnay. 


Wine and whining children is not a good pairing (Rusty Nails Winery)

Enjoy steaks and lamb with red wine, particularly those with a high percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon like St. Estephe and Margaux.

Pinot Noir based wines and wines with higher percentage of merlot or Cabernet Franc go best with roast beef, poultry, duck or venison. For lighter meat dishes, chicken and cold cuts, try a bottle of young, fruity Beaujolais. Pepper steak, cassoulets and meat stews go best with Syrah-based reds. The rich flavors of tomato-sauced dishes are best brought out by a glass of Chianti.


At the Rusty Nail, they name their varieties after shoes. This dry white is called Cinderella's slipper.


Gewurtztraminer, Auslese, Riesling or oak-aged Chardonnay are light fruity white varieties that are a perfect match for oriental and spicy foods. Steer clear of soy sauce, fish sauces, wasabe and most importantly, vinegar. These spices destroy the flavors of wine. For this reason, salad is hardly served with wine. Vinegar based dressings will block out the delicate qualities of wine.

Finishing it off

Asparagus, eggs, artichokes and chocolate cake are difficult to match with wine. When hard pressed, a Pinot Blanc would work with some asparagus dishes. Light dessert wines should be served by themselves although Barsac and Sauternes, slightly heavier, would go well with fresh fruit and light pastries. And who doesn’t know that strawberries and champagne is always a classic match?


My first sweet sip after I gave birth at the Sandy Hill Winery.


A cheese platter goes right before dessert except when it’s an antipasto style party platter. Wine is best enjoyed with mild cheeses. The strong pungent ones would only overwhelm the flavors of your wine. Keep a bottle of dry Sauvignon Blanc in handy for your goat cheese. For blue cheese, gorgonzola, and stilton, dry port or fruity red wines like Beaujolais Cru. Mild cheddar and cream cheeses like Brie, Camembert, Edam and Bel Paese go best with Port, Bordeaux or Burgundy. If you’re having Roquefort cheese, pair it with Sauternes or Barsac. Finally parmesan, gruyere, emmenthal, gouda and hard cheeses are best enjoyed with a full-bodied, fruity and buttery Chardonnay.  

If you do not have the patience to note the pairings, consider a simpler technique while preparing your dishes. Serve wine that would bring out the best in a dish and vice versa. The best way to go about this is to familiarize yourself with the character of the wine and to season the food with the said wine.


Part of the Connecticut Wine Trail


Chardonnay for example, with its apple notes, will go well with a roast pork loin in applesauce dish. But what if you’ve never gone near a stove and simply want to enjoy your meal with a good glass of wine? The simple but expensive solution: Champagne. Champagne goes best with almost anything.


Cheers! (Photo taken at the Haunted House, OKC)


Don’t be afraid to experiment and break rules. After all, it’s your wine, and it’s your dish; you get to decide how best to enjoy it. Go with whatever makes you giddy and lightheaded. If you feel like taking your reds with grilled fish, then go ahead. As Chef Gonzalez would put it, “No one can ever tell you what is good and what is bad. Wine is a personal experience; it is subjective.”  Let’s drink to that!